Cycle Rides from 2023
Great cycling tours, routes, cafés and anecdotes
Loch Katrine
Saturday 28th October
Only four of us toured Loch Katrine this year. Perhaps the weather forecast deterred people but we enjoyed a dry day with occasional sun and only light winds.
Bill, Keith A, Eibhlin and John met in the Wool Centre in Aberfoyle (the Bike Café was closed again) and decided to break with tradition by going clockwise. This allowed us to enjoy the ride along Loch Ard and Loch Chon, rather than rushing back before darkness fell. We avoided the tour buses as well. A sign in the car park for Ben Venue advertised the Wee Blether Tearoom but, sadly, it has not re-opened. The long climb from Loch Chon is not too steep although the road surface is disintegrating again.
We reached The Pier Café at Stronachlachar just after 12.00. Lunch was good and the café was quiet but another party of cyclists arrived just as we were about to leave and it took ages to pay. We noticed some houses being built on the old farm steading nearby, probably for the AirBnB market.
The road around Loch Katrine required heavy repairs after a storm in 2019 and the scars are only now greening over. Recent rain filled the waterfalls along the ride. We broke tradition again by not stopping for another break at the Trossachs Pier, which was busy on the last day of full services. The climb on the road over the Duke's Pass is easier from this side because we started at about 100m elevation and the gradient contains several breaks. Against this, the hairpins down into Aberfoyle require confidence in one's brakes. We finished the ride well before the Wool Centre closed (and long before sunset), which gave time for another cup of tea before returning home.
Bill had a new e-bike and checked how much of the battery he had used (only on the steeper climbs). This agreed well with basic physics, "work done = mgh", using the total climb of 780m from Strava. Science in action! The distance was about 32 miles.
We thought that the clockwise route was better than the traditional, anticlockwise circuit provided that the café at Stronachlachar is open for lunch. A disadvantage is that the longest climb, over the Duke's Pass, is at the end but it is easier this way around.
John
Photos Eibhlin and John
Kirk Yetholm
Saturday 22nd - Sunday 23rd July
The weekend had to be adapted from the rather vague plan I had in mind in February, but thankfully when the weekend came everyone proved to be very adaptable. Unfortunately, a rail strike was called for Saturday 22 July and the weekend became partially car assisted. Sian and I hatched a plan to extend the weekend and we took a train to Tweedbank on the Friday morning and cycled to Berwick which was a new route for both of us. The weather was lovely and sunny and fortified by Welsh cakes we made it with getting lost only twice. On the way we found a family pottery and art studio in a tiny village and stopped by. Sadly, they didn’t sell tea and coffee and instead we decided to take a detour to Kelso for refreshments at the Cream Chimneys in the town square where we saw some of studio’s art work for sale.
We then met up that evening with Anna and Maura at the youth hostel in Berwick Upon Tweed. After a comfortable night in the hostel we headed up to the train station the next morning to meet Bill who’d driven down from Edinburgh. We then headed off as a group of five up the road towards the rather scary crossing over the A1 and then onwards to the honey farm at Horncliffe for our first refreshment stop. This meant cycling over the newly restored and impressive Chainbridge into England that was well worth stopping at and checking out. The bridge is narrow for cars, especially the large ones, and we watched drivers being very careful not to leave some paint on the bollards.
The weather had been ok in the morning, but the forecast rain arrived just before we reached the Old Post Office at Etal for lunch. After that there was a damp ride to the hostel at Kirk Yetholm and we arrived just as John (who was doing a planned Borders recce) was about to put his bike in the shed. The hostel was unusually busy in my experience which was good for their finances, but it put the already dodgy two showers under extra strain. We then went out to enjoy a meal and a beer up the road at the Border Hotel.
There was a rainy start to the Sunday morning as our group of six headed off in the direction of Coldstream. Then we discovered the cafe we traditionally used to visit on the way in Cornhill-on-Tweed never re-opened as a cafe after lockdown. The rain continued to fall. That meant six damp cyclists on the hunt for decent coffee and somewhere dry, headed off to find a cafe in Coldstream. We found the main entrance for The Hirsel country park and a courtyard with a welcoming cafe and a good menu.
Unfortunately the rain continued after brunch and we were starting to think about heading to Berwick by the shortest route possible and hiding out there until our trains arrived. That’s happened to me a few times on rides in the Borders. We decided to head to Paxton House and make a decision on the route to Berwick from there. If my starter course was at the Hirsel, my main meal was at Paxton House, where amazingly the weather started to improve and we’d dried out. Paxton House is not far from Berwick, and, In a well intentioned effort to extend the ride and put some more miles in, a plot was hatched to explore some new roads that took us over the Whiteadder River to Chirnside and the approach to Berwick on NCR 68.
Long story short, the alternative route turned out to be more lengthy than we thought. John wisely headed for the train station as he had an earlier train to Glasgow which he caught with plenty of time to spare. The rest of us were enjoying a new route, but it kept getting longer. It meant myself and Anna were unlikely to catch our train. The two of us pushed on ahead at a rapid pace to try to get to the train station. Somehow, Anna arrived ahead of me and with very few minutes to spare, but annoyingly the first lift at the station was out of order and the train was on the other side of the station. In an adrenaline fuelled effort she somehow carried her bike and panniers up and down the station steps to successfully catch the train, which turned out to be a couple minutes late anyway. I wasn’t so fortunate, or so adrenaline fuelled, I’d used it all up on my ride to the station, and my bike was too heavy to carry up the steps.
In the end, Maura and Bill, who both had vehicles were able to give lifts home to myself and Sian who would have missed her later train too as well as having carry a heavy bike up the steps, so it all came good in the end. What was meant to have been an easy weekend turned out to be pretty eventful!
JanPhotos Jan, John and Sian
The Formartine and Buchan Way
Saturday 30th September - Monday 2nd October
Eight of us (Keith, Tiana, Anna, Harry, Elaine, Peter C, Paul and Chris) departed Aberdeen Station at 11am Saturday. After a stop at Kilau café in Old Aberdeen for some lovely soup and cakes, we continued to Dyce and onto the old railway track bed (F&B way) for the 33 miles to Strichen. No traffic, cool but dry weather and great views of open country. At intervals there were boards relating the history of the old railway. (Try to visit Maud railway museum on the limited days it is open.)
An unseasonably warm and sunny Sunday allowed us a pleasant cycle along country lanes to Strathbeg bird reserve. There a wildflower garden attracted butterflies, damsel and dragon flies as well as numerous small birds. Two unusual southern visitors, a Great White Egret and a Little Egret seen on the loch indicated how global warming is having its impact.
Moving on through the old military airfield we passed the stock car racing pits – noisy engines not an MV aspiration – to further hides and a snack lunch picnic.
The Rattray Head access road had become sand covered and potholed for over a mile in the last two years, but gave access to a lovely beach, a lighthouse (tide in so no access) and sheltered tea stop.
Keith then led to group on a devious but almost traffic free route to Longside via Rora, then the rail path the Peterhead. (38 miles in total).
Cool and dry Monday brought 42 miles of track bed to Dyce. Our highlight on the way was Old Deer Abbey which we visited and rested awhile. The next stop was The Coffee Apothecary Café in Ellon, excellent food, but not fast service. The mosaic floors in the toilets are worth a look.
Note – The Aberdeen / Dyce cycle route (7 miles) has backside numbing cobbles, short steep sections and it difficult to follow. Rated 1 star by many. Take the train!
Photos Anna, Harry and Tiana
Penrith to Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria
Saturday 16th - Sunday 17th September
I led a ride in the area back in 2015 and this trip followed the same route on Saturday but explored new territory on Sunday. Rain had fallen all day on Friday (I was doing a recce) but we were lucky and had a dry weekend. The group comprised Anna, Barbara, Keith A, Jan M, Jan U, John, Peter and Sian, who were spread over several trains because of the limited bike spaces. We walked through the town centre to the cycle route, rather than fight the one-way system. The Market Square still feels like a county town, with a tailor at one end and a grocer at the other. Penrith would be a lovely place, had it not been abandoned to motorists.
Most people had time for coffee at Brougham Hall before setting off along NCN71 to Morland. We saw llamas in 2015 but not this time! We noticed some old railway bridges near Clifton, whose cuttings have been so completely filled that the bridges now sit in level fields. After lunch in the courtyard of the Mill Yard Café we continued through a ford with steep hills on either side to King’s Meaburn. The signposts in this area have decorative finials, which they keep brightly painted. We left NCN71 and passed through Maulds Meaburn and Crosby Ravensworth, all pretty villages with stone houses and often with stock grazing on the green.
The first major climb was long but well graded, leading to a summit at 344m. The surroundings changed from pastoral to moorland as we ascended and the views opened up. Clouds obscured the peaks of the Pennines and we could see showers in the distance, which fortunately did not come our way. The freewheel down to Orton was exhilarating and we piled into the Orton Scar Café at 15.30, none too early because it closed at 16.00. The business is for sale; let’s hope that they find somebody to carry on.
The best part of the ride followed, a steady climb onto the moors on NCN68; it’s a pity that we always take this in late afternoon, which doesn’t leave time to explore the landscape. A headwind had developed but the rain held off. I hoped that a circular stone structure within sight of of Sunbiggin Tarn would be a sheltered seat but it proved to be a fancy tree guard. Behind the tarn were the Howgill Fells, which we circumnavigated in 2018. We descended to Whygill Head and dropped sharply to Water Houses, which was followed by the final steep climb of the day. We were rewarded with a long freewheel to Soulby and into Kirkby Stephen. The traffic was unpleasant: this is another town that puts motorists above everybody else. About 33 miles + 850m ascent. We stayed at the hostel, formerly YHA but independent for many years.
Booking arrangements at the hostel had been somewhat confused so I first had to sort them out with the warden’s assistant, Alix. Meanwhile, the group dispersed to buy food for dinner. I had not been able to make a booking at a restaurant because none would answer the phone or respond to their enquiry form. Some people got an Indian takeaway while others reappeared with offerings from the Coop. Astonishingly, we all managed to eat together. I had suggested a fruit crumble so Anna brought pears from her garden with crumble mix. Unfortunately the cooker that used to be in the members’ kitchen had been removed but Anna resourcefully stewed the pears and toasted the topping, which gave us a tasty dessert.
The sky was brighter in the morning and the wind had not changed direction so it was behind us! We were away by 09.15, which is impressive for MV. No cafe was convenient for morning coffee so my plan was to call at the Coop on the way out and stock up with fresh pastries. Alas! – I had forgotten about Sunday trading laws in England, which meant that larger shops could not open until 1000. Fortunately we had all brought snacks.
Peter was booked on an early train and went his own way. The rest of us retraced yesterday’s route, pausing to admire the clapper bridge at Water Houses. At Whygill Head we turned north to Great Asby, where we toured the pretty village and examined St Thomas’s well. The undulating road led shortly to Rutter Force, which I had chosen as the ‘coffee’ stop. The waterfall was in force after the recent rain but there was nowhere to sit. Instead, we dragged the bikes up the awkward steps and over the bridge. I was worried about the route, shown as a white lane on the OS map, but the steep climb from the ford was on solid concrete and led to a well surfaced farm track. We rode on to some farm buildings with enough area to sit down for a snack.
We needed the rest because the rest of the morning was hilly. First we climbed onto Maulds Meaburn Moor, only to drop immediately into its village. Here we paused to examine the contents of the bus shelter. It contained books, like many of those that we saw, as well as fresh produce (and an apple tree outside). A short ride along yesterday’s route brought us to Crosby Ravensworth and the turning for the road to Shap. I had warned people about this climb of around 150m but in fact it was not as fierce as I had expected, despite a gradient arrow on the map, and we were able to ride all the way to the day’s summit at 332m.
From here it was mostly downhill to lunch at the Abbey Kitchen. They gave us a room to ourselves but had been busier than expected so that many items had already run out. Our choices were constrained but nobody went hungry.
It was downhill from there! – well, mostly. Signs on the road to Bampton Grange advertised a farm show; we never saw the event but encountered a pony and trap and had to stop to let several horse boxes pass. Cloud still obscured the views of the lakeland hills, which was a pity. We took the road on the east side of the Lowther valley, passing hamlets with amusing names. Knipe has a telephone box with a signpost that directed us up a steep hill towards Whale. We cruised into Askham and paused at another well-appointed shelter.
Climbing from High Knipe towards Askham Here we divided. Most people had to return direct to Penrith for their trains, taking an off-road route that Sian had devised. Jan Marsh, Keith and I continued to Pooley Bridge by road (I had hoped to take a track over Moor Divock but conditions were unsuitable). The old stone arched bridge was still standing during my recce, early in 2015, before it was swept away by Storm Desmond in December of that year. The new bridge is entirely different, being made of stainless steel. Verey Books provided tea and Cumberland pepper cake, which was less spicy than expected. We returned to Penrith, encountering Jan U on the way. About 40 miles + 1040 m ascent. Most of us had a long wait at the station but refreshments were hard to find – Sunday trading laws again. Part of the station has been made into a garden, complete with sheep-shaped planters, and we enjoyed sitting on the ‘lawn’. All trains ran to time and we reached home without mishap.
We were lucky with the weather (again). The ride had plenty of hills but we pedalled up almost all of the gradients – well done everybody! – and they were good value: wide vistas from the summit and a rewarding freewheel down the other side. It was a pity that most people missed Pooley Bridge on Sunday; the route was a little too long, allowing for the hills and the times of trains. Particular thanks to Anna for bringing the crumble and for overcoming the lack of the promised oven, and to Sian for her route back to Penrith.
John
Photos: Jan M, Jan U, Anna and John
September Sunshine – Stirling/Birnam/Dundee
Saturday 2nd - Sunday 3rd September
The original plan was for a June trip but despite booking early the Birnam Hotel could only offer 8 beds in September. However, the weather was unseasonably kind so waterproofs were left at home and suncream packed.
The route also changed due to engineering works, trains only travelling as far as Stirling – a few extra miles beginning with views of the Wallace Monument and Stirling Castle following a meet up at the station café. A heron on Allan Water greeted us as we joined the original route in Dunblane and from there quiet lanes through undulating countryside.
The extra miles meant we could eat lunch at Braco Coffee, a popular cycle friendly village stop which we reached bang on the dot of 12 as booked! This avoided the relative busy-ness of Auchterarder, turning off just before via Tullibardine.
At Kinkell Bridge – a grand four-arched bridge over the River Earn - we were suddenly down to six, despite having had a stop shortly before. It transpired Kathy had spotted a kingfisher and those behind joined her to await a return of the metallic blue. Not knowing the bird’s timescale and wary of the day's additional mileage, the six continued on, leaving a kingfisher splinter group whose patience was later rewarded.
From Kinkell Bridge we zig-zagged via Trinity Gask and Findo Gask to Tibbermore for a very welcome break at Gloagburn Farm cafe. Disappointingly the lane to the riverside path along the River Almond was closed which meant a short stint on the pavement alongside the A85. However, picturesque Pitcairngreen looked idyllic in the sun as we rounded the village green and later the valley from Waterloo in the late afternoon light.
The Birnam Hotel was welcoming, with bike storage and the conveniently located Birnam Inn next door. Sandie compared the latter to Faulty Towers. Whilst the food was generally fine, the vegetarian pie remained a mystery and although several chose deserts, by the time the waiter returned to take the order enthusiasm had dissipated. Lynn & partner, John, stayed with cousins but joined us for dinner.
After breakfast there was time to stretch our legs at the Beatrix Potter garden opposite, Beatrix Potter having spent many summers at nearby Dalguise. Then a wander down to the River Tay to see the Birnam Oak, which has stood for around 1000 years. Nearby the 300-year-old ‘young pretender’ sycamore.
From Birnam the route took us east through quiet villages - Gellyburn, Kinklaven Woodside and Kettins with lunch at the Commercial Hotel, Newtyle. John and Lynn later opted for a more direct route to Dundee as they were heading on to see friends in Cupar. The rest of us had time for a brief stop at Tealing Dovecot before tea at the Speckled Hen. Some could have done with something stronger after the hairy crossing of the A90 shortly before.
A meandering route through some of the Dundee parks brought us to the docks where I discovered a puncture – not from the glass I’d just waved people away from, but surprisingly due to a drawing pin. Harry kindly did the hard work with the tyre whilst everyone else chipped in.
Two (plus one pre-booked) managed to get places on the first train. The rest took the next slow train which didn’t require bike bookings, although three had later tickets. Happily none of the five taking different trains to those booked, were charged again.
Harry, Barbara, John, Paul, Kathy, Sandie, Lynn & John, Anna
Photos: Harry, Kathy, Lynn, John, Anna
Leuchars to Arbroath
Saturday 8th July
Five of us cycled the beautiful surf and turf route from Leuchars station to Arbroath, all on Sustrans route 1 save for a diversion inland from Balmossie to Carnoustie due to route-works. The way is well sign-posted and should be complete by 2024, providing flat cycling all the way.
After coffee at the station cafe (open 24/7) we headed to NTS Tentsmuir forest (loos and another cafe), passing the old ice-house and some carved stones illustrating the period of Roman occupation; then skirted the pretty Tayport harbour for a nice section along the firth and over the bridge.
From Dundee are the seaside towns that were once thriving holiday resorts, now adapting to day-tripper business: Broughty Ferry has a castle and delicious scones at the Urban Beach cafe beyond.
Having navigated the detour we re-joined the coast by descending past Barry Mill to the western edge of Carnoustie golf course - army firing range on one side and flying golf balls on the other; then along the tarmac shore path at the edge of the links, though to Westhaven, a lovely section.
From here to Arbroath is 7 miles, 2 on tarmac and 5 on a spectacular links path, with waves, rock and gulls on the right.
Fish suppers at the Old Boatyard restaurant at Arbroath harbour completed a great day out.
About 7 hours and 35 miles.
Sandie
Photos: Kathy & Sian
Penicuik to Berwick
Saturday 24th - Sunday 25th June
This weekend was a little different as we used the X62 bus rather than the train to get to the start. The bus took fewer bikes, but we got round that by some of us catching a later bus and joining the ride a few miles further on. The ride started at Penicuik but others joined an hour later at Eddleston or Peebles. In the end this worked well and we all met at the Park Hotel in Peebles. The Beltane festival was ongoing so there was plenty to look at.
It was a warm sunny afternoon as we set off down the cyclepath to Innerleithen and Walkerburn following the River Tweed. After ice-cream in Walkerburn we joined the minor road on the south side of the river. A late spring meant all the trees were still very green with beautiful views over the river and lots of birdsong as we worked our way east.
At the Peel bridge, everyone elected to go off-road via Yair rather than cycle on the A707. This turned out to be fine as the surface was mostly good. After Yair there's a climb then a descent to rejoin the river where a cyclepath takes you into Galashiels. In Galashiels the day ride people left us (Bill, Barbara, Anna, Janet and Vic) to get a bus or train back to Edinburgh. The remaining four (Harry, Elaine, Tiana and Keith) heading to the B&B.
Next morning we had breakfast at Eden Coffee House in Melrose. There was no sign of the forecast rain so far, but we'd better get going! We crossed the River Tweed at Dryburgh Abbey then continued a zig-zag route on minor roads to Kelso. Here we left the NCN route and went along the B6350, on the south side of the Tweed to Coldstream. The shop at Cornhill where we thought we'd get food was shut, but there was a snack at the pub.
The final section included a look at Norham Castle and honey cakes at Chain Bridge Honey Farm. These tasted great but it was spitting rain by then. This didn't amount to much at first so we had a good look at the Union Bridge then continued to Berwick. Half an hour before we got there the skies opened and the road was like a river, so it was a damp crew that got on the train back to Edinburgh.
Harry Henniker
Five Ferries
Saturday 10th - Sunday 11th June
Unfortunately Sheelagh was unable to lead this ride, but our lack of official leader was no deterrent. We all mucked in and proved to be a well organised and cheery group.
Seven riders: Anna, Bill, Iona, Jenny, Judith, Karen and Sian set off from Brodick at 2.15pm on a gloriously hot day.
Initially travelling Northwards we headed towards the first big challenge of the weekend – the String Pass going East to West through Arran with fabulous views to be had in all directions. Sadly our original plan to rendez-vous with Vic at the Machrie tearoom was not to be - it was closed. We headed Northwards and very soon came across Café Thyme and Vic who was just leaving. Without too much persuasion he about turned and headed back with the rest of us for another refreshment.
After leaving the cafe and heading on towards Lochranza another problem was about to hit us. One e-bike started to have major problems with spokes. It soon became apparent this was not easy to fix and an e-bike is not easy to push. No immediate solutions came to mind until the island bus was approaching and we managed to flag it down. Luck was on our side when a very helpful driver agreed to pick up rider and bike and take them to our destination Lochranza.
The rest of the group carried on along the coast road in undulating terrain with more beautiful views and wildlife spotting passing through Pirnmill and past the 12 Apostles of Catacol until we reached Lochranza hostel our destination for the night.
Once freshened up, a convivial evening with good food was enjoyed by all in what was once the Lochranza Inn, now called Lochranza Country Inn and owned by the North Arran Community Benefit Society. Miraculously by this time repairs had been carried out on the stricken bike and it was deemed fit to carry on with the trip.
Sunday dawned and we set off for the 9.30 ferry to Claonaig. From Claonaig on the B8001 minor road it felt like going way back in time until we hit the main A83 road to Tarbert. Here we had our first refreshments of the day and boarded our second ferry of the day. We soon arrived at Portavadie from where we headed to Tignabruaich and the quaint and slightly retro café Five West well chosen by Sheelagh. From there we had the second big challenge of the weekend, the hill out of Tignabruaich. We all got to the top but not quite by the same route?
This was followed by a very long descent on the A8003 along the sea Loch Riddon when all of a sudden a delighted Iona spotted an osprey. Some of us stopped to take a look before continuing on Northwards then doubling back Southwards towards Colintraive where we boarded our third (and shortest)ferry of the day.
After arriving in Rhubodach on the Isle of Bute it was a straight run towards the ferry terminal where 3 of our number boarded whilst the other 5 decided to make the most of the lovely weather and scenery and stayed an extra night in Rothesay.
Thanks to everyone for making it another great weekend.
Jenny
Photos: Jenny & Judith
Carlisle to Tweedbank
Friday 19th - Sunday 21st May
This, I think, is my third (different) route between Carlisle and Tweedbank. The first via Bewcastle in 2017, then via Kielder in 2019 and now via Eskdalemuir. All thanks to the re-opening of the Borders railway!
The route had to be spread over three days because of the paucity of accommodation, but as there were the usual train problems, the first day could be used for gathering the troops in Carlisle before embarking on the relatively short ride (25miles) to Langholm.
Barbara and Jenny arrived first and decided to head off to Rockcliffe for coffee and then meet us in Longtown. The rest of us (Eibhlin, Maura, Anna, Jan M, Keith and Tiana) set off soon after midday to wind our way through Carlisle, mostly on the NCN7 taking in part of the Kingmoor nature reserve and an off-road section alongside fields to cross the River Lyne to Longtown where we had a late lunch. Refreshed, we went to Langholm via Netherby and the B6318. The Muckle Toon once had a railway and many mills. There are information boards about its former glory days…
All bar one were staying at the Douglas Arms so we had our evening meal there. Good cooking and very generous portions!
Saturday was a glorious ride up Eskdale and over to Ettrickdale to Hawick. First stop was Westerkirk, where there is a memorial to Thomas Telford who was born in nearby Glendinning and educated here. There is an information board about him and his association with the area. Behind the kirk were great views across the valley.
We took the Castle O’er loop which is flatter and even quieter than the main road to Eskdalemuir. At various points there are information boards about the (pre)historical sites in the area. At Eskdalemuir we stopped for some welcome lunch at the community hub there. It’s a new facility, well appointed and serving excellent food. The cycle parking was something else – locks and charging point provided!
We continued over the watershed and enjoyed the long downhill run into Ettrickdale. At Tushie Law we turned onto the Hawick road where we enjoyed a picnic by the river. More great views over the hills before descending to the A7 and the back road into Hawick. Hawick is undergoing extensive flood prevention works. New bridges funded by Sustrans and New 'active travel pathways' once finished. (47 miles)
Eibhlin left us here to go directly home.
We were split over two accommodations so opted to eat out. Lovely meal at Adam’s Kitchen.
Sunday took us from Hawick along the small Borders roads to Hassendean, Whitlees and the NCN1 into Melrose where we had a late lunch at the Eden café. Anna peeled off to go to Abbotsford. Although some rushed off to get an earlier train, we all ended up on the same one! (That’s happened before too!) 20 miles.
Funnily enough no-one opted for cycling back to Edinburgh…
Tiana
Photos: Anna and Maura
Stirling to Callander
Saturday 6th - Sunday 7th May
Arriving by train or car, nine of us set off from Stirling Station. We were pleased to have three new people with us. Heading north from the station and via two underpasses, we were soon off-road alongside the River Forth, most of the time parallel to Drip Road. After Forth Valley College and crossing at Dobbies, we took the old bridge opposite and turned sharp left onto Chalmerston Road. After four miles, and right onto Kirk Lane, we met the A84 again, and turned left for lunch at Blair Drummond Smiddy. The morning mist was beginning to lift, the views improving. Lunch was good, with everyone discussing routes, accommodation etc.
Still on A873, we turned left on B8031 signed Coldach. We were delighted to see that in a field alongside the road, a young foal had just been born. We continued to Powblack Farm, taking a sharp right onto B822 for Flanders Moss. This is a National Nature Reserve and the largest raised peat bog in UK. Much to see and read about. Four people climbed the tower for a better view of the surrounding area.
Returning to B822, some people enjoyed a quick visit to the Alpaca Centre. Then, climbing up to Thornhill, we all had a break at the site of two somewhat neglected helicopters. The road opened out with good views to east and west. We arrived in Callander by about 3 p.m.
Most of us were staying in the Callander Hostel. We remembered that Alec Mann had brought us here twice, 6/7 years ago. This a social enterprise project offering work to local young people. We were all content with our rooms/pod. We put the bikes in the secure bike shed and went off to buy necessary groceries in Tesco. Tiana master-minded the production of a vegetable stew with Harry and Elaine. Paul cooked the rice to perfection. With salad, tiramisu and wine, we were very content. Saqib and Geoff arrived from dinner in Callander with more wine and up-market chocolates. Altogether a good evening.
On Sunday morning, we set off before 10 a.m. on NCN7 for coffee at the Broch Café just beyond Strathyre, 10 miles north. The path was beautifully quiet, the trees and bushes beginning to look their best. As we climbed, the tops of the mountains to the east became clear. The path was mainly tarmac with just one major zig-zag track.
We returned to Callander in the sunshine and, south of the village, took the B8032 into Doune for a late lunch at the Buttercup Café. We left Doune on B824 and soon turned right for Inverardoch Mains. At Easter Row, we should have continued south to Old Keir. However, I made a mistake and took us back to B824 where some people went to Bridge of Allan, others to Dunblane. My apologies to everyone. Two resourceful people took the intended route, going under the M9 direct into Bridge of Allan. Miraculously we were all together at Bridge of Allan station to wave goodbye to those who had caught the early train from Dunblane. Judith, Karen and I went via Kippenrait into Dunblane. Geoff and Saqib cycled into Stirling.
What a brilliant group we were. Thanks to everyone for coming.
Barbara
Photos: Geoff and Tiana
Oban to Dunoon
Saturday 22nd – Monday 24th April 2023
This trip repeated the last two days of the tour from Campbeltown to Taynuilt last year, which were marred by foul weather and the sudden closure of a hostel. Unfortunately Torran hostel was closed again because of illness. The trip was in jeopardy until Eibhlin found accommodation in Ardrishaig and rescued us. We had no trouble with the trains or ferries, thank goodness.
The tour was complicated with a choice of two routes every day and 11 riders: Anna, Barbara, Eibhlin, Grace, Jan Marsh, Jo, John, Keith Adams, Phil, Sheelagh and Tiana. We never rode all together, which made communication a challenge. The longer routes came to about 150 miles with 3000 metres of climbing, according to Strava; much of the distance for all routes was over challenging terrain.
SATURDAY APRIL 22: OBAN TO ARDRISHAIG
The two options for the route differed only in their starting points:
• Taynuilt to Dalavich and Ardrishaig: 39 miles + 500 metres ascent.
• Oban to Taynuilt, Dalavich and Ardrishaig: 51 miles + 700 metres ascent.
Both included the road along Loch Awe, accurately described as a rollercoaster on the Sustrans map. This day was 16 miles longer than originally planned because of the change of accommodation. Fortunately the extra distance was mostly along flat roads and the canal.
Anna and Sheelagh stayed in Oban on Friday night and started early from there. Three of us on an earlier train also started from Oban and enjoyed a glorious ride through Glen Lonan in sunshine, with Ben Cruachan dominating the horizon and gorse scenting the air. The others started from Taynuilt by climbing a road with a gradient arrow, which set the tone of the whole ride. The ascent through Glen Nant was not too demanding but the road along Loch Awe was much harder than I recalled from the previous year. Are the gradients really more severe from north to south or am I unfit? (Almost certainly the latter.)
The Wild Rowan Café at Dalavich provided tea, cakes and ice cream (yes, the sun was shining) and we regrouped for the rest of the day. The road became even more challenging with frequent switchbacks. Jan walked up one section and overtook John and Keith, who were still riding! Eventually the gradients eased as we passed the Torran hostel, where we had planned to stay. We followed the main road through Kilmartin and turned off to the first set of stone circles in Temple Wood, where we stopped for a snack.
The remainder of the ride was flat and we could hear the first cuckoos of the year on the surrounding moorland. Tiana got a puncture on the towpath just outside Lochgilphead, which delayed the final arrivals at the Grey Gull Hotel. The manageress kindly helped us squeeze the bicycles into the laundry room. The ride from Oban was 52 miles + 1200 m ascent according to Strava, which is a lot more climbing than predicted by Google maps. Which is correct?
We need not have hurried. The hotel had insisted that we provide our choices for dinner several days in advance but the kitchen was not aware of this and we had to order afresh. Eventually the hot food appeared all at once, starters and main courses together. Some of the staff behaved as though the mistake had been ours rather than theirs, which soured the evening a little.
SUNDAY APRIL 23: ARDRISHAIG TO TARBERT
I suggested two options for the route:
• Continue directly on the Sustrans route, crossing Knapdale to Loch Caolisport and riding through Ormsary and Kilberry: 32 miles + 600 metres ascent.
• Return beside the canal and take the road along Loch Sween with a few miles of unsurfaced track through the Ellary estate, joining the shorter route at Achahoish: 52 miles + 900 metres ascent. Both included the hilly coastal road through Ormsary and Kilberry and neither was likely to include a café.
The group on the longer ride set off along the canal, turned off at Bellanoch and stopped to visit the Argyll Beaver Centre. The visitor centre turned out to be 600 m up a rough track but was worth it. An impressive log cabin turned out to house the composting toilets! The warden in the centre told us a lot about the local wildlife and their feeders attracted plenty of birds as well as a red squirrel. Jo conducted us around the loch to find a beavers’ lodge but it was abandoned and we did not see the animals themselves.
We returned to the road, which undulated gently along Loch Sween with several rewarding freewheels. View of Jura steadily developed as we made our way south. Castle Sween holiday park advertised a restaurant so, ever optimistic, we cruised down the steep driveway and found that Rafters was open. We ordered coffee and I asked whether we could eat our food outside, explaining that we had brought it because we had not expected them to be open. They agreed, so several of us sat at a picnic table to enjoy a packed lunch with our coffee. This didn’t last long because we were told that ‘outside’ meant completely outside their premises, not just beyond the door. They would have received orders for seconds if we had been encouraged to stay and we were the only customers in sight.
After a few more miles we whizzed past Kilmory Knap Chapel. Anna commented “All I need now is to see some seals” so we stopped, looked and there they were, basking on the rocks in the distance! The other group saw seals as well. The next few miles were on a rough track through the Ellary estate. An unusual and frightening feature was a bridge made from a cattle grid with no parapets or other protection. The woodland was just coming into leaf, a lovely time of year.
Back on the metalled road we missed St Columba’s cave. After passing through Achahoish we met the B8024 and joined the Kilberry loop. This is another rollercoaster, which seemed to get ever more challenging as we became more tired. The views of Jura became even better and more islands came into sight, including Islay and Gigha. The party on the shorter route took a look at the sculptured stones at Kilberry Castle, which impressed them, but those on the longer route were running late. Near the head of Loch Stornoway we passed a cast iron-mile marker with “Tarbert 11 miles”. This depressed us but was accurate; I had under-estimated the length of the ride. Those last miles were wearisome, culminating in one of the hardest climbs of the day. The longer ride was 56 miles + 1070 m ascent according to Strava.
We spread across the Islay Frigate Hotel and the Starfish Rooms in Tarbert. The restaurant at the Anchor Hotel was friendly and we had a much more relaxing time than the evening before.
MONDAY APRIL 24: TARBERT TO DUNOON
I suggested two quite different routes for the day:
• Dunoon via Strachur and Loch Eck, using a road or track: 47 miles + 500 metres ascent.
• Rothesay via Tighnabruaich and Colintraive (as on Five Ferries): 27 miles + 400 metres ascent.
The Rothesay route proved more popular after the strenuous rides on the previous two days. It also allowed a later ferry and a more leisurely breakfast.
Four of us rode to the slipway for the 0900 ferry. The weather was sunny, better than forecast, and Arran looked spectacular. A stiff climb out of Portavadie took us to Millhouse, where we went our separate ways. Anna and Keith set off for Strachur, Sheelagh did a recce for her forthcoming Five Ferries ride and John toured the Ardlamont peninsula to enjoy the views. Drama struck when he arrived in Tighnabruaich, looking for a café. Sheelagh was sitting on the ground in front of The Tearoom, clutching her knee and with a bloody nose. She had slipped off the kerb, landed heavily on her right knee and broken the patella. She diagnosed the injury herself and it was later confirmed by X-ray. John called an ambulance while staff from the tearoom and neighbouring gallery provided coats and blankets for warmth. One of them phoned the local GP, who came when she had finished her rota. The most galling feature of the accident was that Sheelagh wasn’t on her bike at the time. She had ridden the rough track through Ellary and then came to grief on a pavement – but that's how accidents happen. She needed an operation to rejoin her patella and had to spend a week in hospital.
The party who took the later ferry had bypassed the village and were now well on their way to Bute, having climbed the challenging hill out of Tighnabruaich. Their reward was views of the Kyles of Bute and a sight of the Ark built in 2021 by David Blair and Extinction Rebellion to raise awareness about climate crisis. This was followed by a second ferry to Bute, an easy ride along the coast to Rothesay and the final ferry to Wemyss Bay. Anna and Keith enjoyed their longer route, finishing with a long cruise past Loch Eck to Dunoon.
We were lucky with the weather this time, with some sunshine every day. There was almost no rain and the wind had eased from the stiff easterly in the days before the trip. The route was on the demanding side, partly because the closure of Torran upset my carefully balanced days, but it allowed us to experience the glorious scenery. The options gave people a choice of routes but meant that we didn’t all have much time to talk to each other, which was a pity. The tour was thoroughly enjoyable, apart from Sheelagh’s mishap, but I should aim for something simpler next time!
John
Photos: John, Tiana, Phil, Keith, Sheelagh
Launch Ride to Linlithgow
Sunday 26th March
There were eight of us - all in good spirits. Sheelagh went on the early train (thanks) and, miraculously, six of us, with bikes, all got on the 9.30 train. That maybe a record. Sue had decided to meet us at the lunch venue.
The route worked quite well. We set out from Linlithgow Station going east and were soon skirting the Loch with good views of the Palace. The path is narrow but has information boards and some passing places. We saw first a tree creeper and then a grebe (unfortunately not displaying). We continued off-road to Mill Road and The Bridge Inn where we climbed up to the Easter Manuel road into Whitecross. The sun was shining on snow as we looked toward Fife. At the cemetery, we dropped down to Bridge 51 on the Union Canal and were soon at the Bridge 49 Bistro. (Rather muddy exit from the Canal.)
The staff at the bistro were not bothered that we arrived 45 minutes early. We had coffee outside and then moved indoors to choose whether we fancied the breakfast or lunch menu.
After lunch, we continued along the Canal to bridge 41. There were dozens of daffodils. We then took B9080 via Winchburgh to Kirkliston for coffee and cake/ice cream at Fico's bistro in Main Street.
From there we took the off-road track to Carlowrie Cottages and Cramond Brig for home. (28 miles.)
The weather was better than expected - not as cold as forecast. However, the wind was not from the west as planned! We were rejoicing in our good fortune when we got the hint of snow/hail near Cramond Brig. No sooner had we put on waterproofs when it stopped. We got home at about 5 p.m.
Barbara
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