Cycle Rides from 2022
Great cycling tours, routes, cafés and anecdotes
Loch Katrine weekend
Friday 28th - Sunday 30th October
A day ride for some; a weekend for others...
Nine of us took part this year: Kate, Catherine, Maura, Barbara, Jan M, Jan U, Tiana, Keith and John. We had planned to meet in the Bike Café but it showed no sign of activity at 10.00 so we reverted to the Wool Centre. Everybody was on time, which must be a first! Only Jan U and John chose the route through the forest while the remainder tackled the road over the Duke’s Pass. The autumn colours were glorious (although sunshine would have helped) and the waterfalls were in spate after the recent rain. We had no problem getting a table at the Trossachs Pier café; indeed the place was unusually quiet. The road party had to wait only a few minutes for the pair who took the forest, instead of the usual hour – another first.
The ride along the loch was uneventful and we stopped for the traditional group photo at the viewpoint opposite Royal Cottage. However, we got an unwelcome surprise when we found that the café at Stronachlachar was shut. Both Tiana and John had checked the web site, which did not mention any closure. We took advantage of their verandah to enjoy our snacks out of the rain, which began to fall more heavily.
The final stretch was enlivened by meeting three Lochs and Glens coaches, which could barely get around the sharp bends of the twisty road. We arrived back in Aberfoyle just before the rain became unpleasant. The time was 17.00 despite the prompt start and omitting a café: that’s 7 hours to do about 35 miles! It’s a lovely ride and we should perhaps arrange it earlier in the year so that we can enjoy the scenery in better conditions.
John
For four of us (Barbara, Jan M, Keith and Tiana) it was a three-day event; this year with the added fun of dealing with cancelled and curtailed trains. The forecast for Friday morning was atrocious which resulted in much debate as to whether we should alight at Dalreoch or Balloch. In the event the choice was made for us at they suddenly terminated the train at Dalreoch! The weather brightened and we enjoyed a pleasant cycle to Balloch in the sunshine. We were particularly impressed by a new (to us) mural under one of the bridges.
At Balloch we lunched at the Waterhouse Inn before continuing on the NCN7 northwards. The weather started threatening again at Gartmore so we voted not to stop at Drymen but push onto Aberfoyle where we got inside our apartment just as the rain started. Great timing!
We met up with Jan U for the evening meal in the Forth Inn. Saturday’s meal was cooked in the apartment.
Sunday’s forecast was for light showers. The 17.09 train from Dunblane was showing cancelled meaning that we would have to ensure we caught the 16.09. Stress! The ‘light shower’ started at 9.20 and lasted 1½ hrs and would be best described as a downpour! We could not wait for it to pass over so we endured a miserable ride up through the forest.
However it cleared at the top so we had a not unpleasant but puddlely ride all the away to Callander where we stopped for lunch at the Courtyard coffee shop. The rain started again soon after, but we continued to Dunblane notwithstanding, our ride brightened by a rainbow. The sun emerged just before Doune and stayed with us into Dunblane. Having panicked about whether we’d catch the train, we arrived with ¾ hour to spare! We over filled the single cycle slot – fortunately there was no other cyclist wanting to join further down the line.
All in all an enjoyable weekend with traditional precipitation but very warm for the end of October.
Tiana
Photos: Barbara, Jan M, John and Tiana
Remembering Alec
September 2022
Alec's last ride was Dunblane to Helensburgh.
Angus Glens - Lethnot and Esk
saturday 17th - Monday 19th September
Four out of the seven of us arranged to go up a day early to avoid an RMT rail strike (called off at last minute). Keith C rode from Leuchars and Kate from Dundee. Apart from a detour along the beach to avoid a washout at Arbroath, this is an excellent route in its own right. Tiana came by train and Barbara rode from Carnoustie.
Jenny, Keith A and Anna joined us at Vin-tealicious in Arbroath for coffee/breakfast before the ride to Brechin where we lunched at The Hutt. Matching people with their lunch was the usual confusion despite MV giving their names when ordering.
After passing under the A90 followed by a few gentle rises that Keith C assured the group were not hills, we had our only serious hill climb through the Caterthuns. This produced a brace of gear cable failures that led to two of the group having a tough time. Keith A was the only person with a spare cable, but Shimano’s design thwarted his best efforts as removing a plastic cover required a small crosshead screwdriver none of us had. (Keith C will now produce a spares and tools list before next year.)
Five of us saw the best of Glen Lethnot – almost traffic free. Quite a tough run up into the wind, but a glorious run down again. Two opted to head directly for Edzell.
The Panmure Arms served up a tempting selection of food (but Keith C had to wait till the next day for his venison) which we enjoyed in our private dining area.
After Sunday breakfast (Kippers, smoked haddie, salmon or full fry up) we were ready for a ‘tough’ day, ie a gentle ride up Glenesk to Invermark Castle and Loch Lee. Those that reached Loch Lee were treated to an unexpected local history talk by a fellow walker.
Next stop was the Glenesk museum which houses an interesting selection of everyday artifacts from the glen amassed by the local schoolteacher during the 1940s and 50s. One of its prized exhibits is a 3D model of Gannochy Bridge. The small café offered coffee and cakes, eagerly snapped up.
Monday's return to Arbroath (Dundee for Keith C) was via the Montrose Basin to view the birds from the station footbridge and waters edge. No café stops due to QE funeral so a picnic next to Bamse’s statue – the Norwegian St Bernard whose wartime heroics included pushing a knife wielding attacker into the harbour.
The Angus glens are great cycling country – very little traffic, good views and sheltered from most of the weather (We had minimal rain). The coastal route Arbroath to Dundee is almost all on dedicated, well surfaced cycleway (Though take care on route finding heading north from the Tay Road Bridge).
Keith C
Photos:
Anna, Kate and Tiana
Saturday 3rd to Sunday 4th September 2022
Nine of us met at the Beech Tree cafe in Dunblane for a few introductions and catching up. The forecast showed one drop of rain for most of the weekend which was a disappointing start but we set off dry.
Having passed Andy Murray’s gold post box at the top of the High Street, we took a path round the cathedral to join NCN75 to Doune using the old railway path. Light rain started as we left Doune on the B826 but cleared after about half an hour. However, the view across Flanders Moss to the Fintry Hills was hazy so not quite as spectacular as it often is. Luckily, an advertised two week road closure along this section had in fact lasted 12 days, ending the day before, saving a hilly detour.
Most of the group took a short detour down to an access point on the Lake of Monteith for the peaceful view out to Inchmahome, several fishing boats dotted across the water. Blackberries in the hedgerow provided a seasonal snack as we returned to the road for Aberfoyle. Lunch there was well timed fortuitously avoiding a heavy downpour.
The morning had been relatively flat but the afternoon was more undulating. Continuing on NCN7 back out of Aberfolyle, we headed south, climbing to Gartmore We were caught in a heavier shower but this passed as we reached the top of the climb just before Muir Park Reservoir. From there, largely a free wheel down into Drymen, views of Conic Hill on our right accompanying the descent with the odd car appearing to test our breaks and stem our speed.
Cake and coffee at the small Drymen Bakery where luckily it was dry enough to sit out as there was only space for about three inside on the window seat (or floor!)
Conic Hill reappeared at various angles as we looped up towards Balamaha and Loch Lomond. Views of the loch weren’t at their best but it’s always heart-warming to see water, hills and islands. Once we were further up the higher, more dramatic, slopes couldn’t but impress.
We ate well in the evening, the current warden being a trained chef, and had time to sit in the high-windowed lounge looking out onto Loch Lomond. We were advised the ferry might not run the following morning as the forecast was for heavy rain – all morning.
Despite the wet, the ferry did run, the bikes stacked beneath a canopy at the front. After a grey crossing, made interesting by the captain’s wealth of knowledge and the cheeriness of the crew, the rain amazingly stopped as we reached Luss.
Plans to hole up in a coffee shop were dispensed with and we continued on the old road and cycle path down to the B832, then climbed gradually along the minor Glen Fruin road, picking blackberries as we went. It’s a spectacular glen but not at its best on a dull day. The rain started as we reached the top but tailed off as we dropped sharply down to pass under the railway, past the monstrosity of Faslane and into Garelochhead for coffee at the Perch Cafe where we sat outside in the sun.
Three opted to head directly on to Helensburgh. The others continued on a path round Garelochhead Bay and round the coast of the Rosneath Peninsular for lunch at the Cafe Kilcreggan where the staff dried off the outside chairs and tables for us. We spotted two herons on the way.
The whole afternoon turned out to be gloriously sunny. We took the upper road with extensive views of Loch Long and of the Firth of Clyde behind – the water sparkling blue in the sunshine. Further ahead, views of the Cobbler and other peaks. To avoid dropping back down to sea level and then a 15% climb, we stepped through an oversized gate and zigzagged up a forest track, passing various modern eco holiday homes. The views were stunning.
From the top, a drop back down to the B833 to retrace our wheels back to Garelochhead and onto Helensburgh. From Shandon the old road makes for easy traffic free riding with memorable views of the loch and peninsula.
As we took our seats on the train we recognised one of the waitresses from the Café at Kilcreggan next to us.
Participants: Anna, Alec, Barbara, Eibhlin, Euan, Peter, Sheelagh, Sian, Tiana
Photos: Tiana, Sian, Sheelagh, Anna
The recce was memorable for my bike frame splitting at Aberfoyle and having to hire a replacement, the ferry not running and the return train home from Helensburgh not running due to train strikes.
Anna
Alston and Teesdale
Saturday 30th - Sunday 31st July 2022
This ride was planned by Alastair, but a couple of months before the ride he discovered that he was unable to go, so I offered to lead the ride itself.
Five of us met at Carlisle Station. Two had travelled down on Friday, partly because of fears of disruption caused by a strike by some companies' train drivers, but on Saturday both trains that we had been booked on ran as planned.
On Saturday we took much the same route as we did on the second day of the
2019 trip to Alston, but in reverse. At Wetheral we stopped at the Priory Gatehouse, the only remaining part of a 14th-century priory, and crossed the Eden by the railway viaduct, which has a footpath beside the tracks and splendid views of the river valley. After Castle Carrock we climbed to a viewpoint overlooking Talkin Tarn, now a country park, and from the viewpoint none of the tourist buildings were visible.
We lunched at a community cafe at Hallbankgate, the last food stop before Alston, 15 miles further on. The light rain that had been patchy for most of the morning got heavier and we looked at it from the cafe wondering how it would affect us going into the hills, but soon after we left the cafe it stopped and later the sun came out.
From Hallbankgate the route is up Tynedale along the A689. Although it is an A road it is not busy and is well-graded apart from two steep bits towards the end. Beyond Lambley the NCN68 runs parallel, but part of it is along the former Haltwhistle-Alston railway line, unsurfaced (which we didn't take), and the rest along a minor road which although scenic and quiet has some very steep hills including two downhill hairpin bends that were best taken at a walk.
Part of the railway, from Slaggyford to Alston, has been converted to a narrow-gauge tourist line. We looked at the stations at both ends. Slaggyford has a static buffet coach built in Britain for Sierra Leone Railways. Trains were running but we arrived too late to see the last one or sample the buffet.
We stayed at Alston Youth Hostel, formerly YHA but now independent. It is being advertised for sale, so its future as a hostel is uncertain.
On Sunday we climbed from Alston to a 1962-foot summit at Yad Moss, a thousand feet of ascent in eight miles, the worst bit being the first mile.
We avoided Alston's steep main street by pushing our bikes through the cemetery (even steeper, but it has some magnificent trees including large redwoods). Early in the day the clouds looked very low but as we approached the summit they lifted. The descent into Teesdale was wonderful with several miles of freewheeling above Langdon Beck. Several sports cars passed us at speed going west; on my reccy a few weeks earlier there were lots of motorbikes.
We lunched at a country park at Bowlees, five miles west of Middleton.
Here there is a short walk to Low Force, a set of rapids on the Tees.
After Middleton we continued along the south bank of the Tees through several picturesque villages including Romaldkirk and Cotherstone, the latter having a festival with cut-out figures wearing fancy costumes in many of the front gardens.
Then we reached Barnard Castle, still popular after its notoriety of two years previously, with a good view of the castle. Its main street was the only place on the whole weekend, apart from Carlisle, where we had to contend with heavy traffic.
We had tea at a cafe near the Market Hall, which is a building on pillars in the middle of the main street.
The road between Middleton and Barnard Castle had had a lot of short switchbacks, too much for one of the group who decided to continue to Darlington on the A67. The rest of us took minor roads. The NCN route used to cross the Tees at Whorlton on a suspension bridge built in 1831, but the bridge became unsafe and is closed to all traffic while it is being restored, so we had to divert along other roads further north, some of them very narrow, through Newsham and Langton, then along the B6279 into Darlington. Near Killerby there is a sign saying "Welcome to Darlington" but it is misleading; we were entering the area of Darlington Borough which is big and there were still eight miles to go.
We managed to traverse Darlington along quiet suburban streets, thanks to a cycle map produced by Darlington Borough Council.
Despite LNER train drivers being on strike on Saturday, the trains were back to normal on Sunday evening. Our trains were almost on time, delayed only because an earlier train had broken down. We managed to get help from train staff to load the bikes onto the hooks in the cramped bike area on the train, but even so it was difficult to put two bikes in one two-bike cubicle.
We had cycled 51 miles that day. I slept well that night, pleased that the weekend had gone so well.
Alec
Photos: Anna and Tiana
Morpeth Loop
Saturday 9th - Monday 11th July
Organising this ride proved somewhat a logistical nightmare. A steady stream booking on followed by a steady stream cancelling for various reasons. Added to this was the threat of train timetable changes and cancellations, a feature of 2022.
Seven of us met up at the Pavilion café in Morpeth in brilliant sunshine and set off at midday westwards along the river Wansbeck and the B6343 towards Netherwhitton. We picked up Anna at Stanton Hall along the way. After Netherwhitton we continued west to Herterton gardens where we immediately put our picnics before exploration!
The gardens are a gem in the rolling Northumbrian countryside. They were created in the 1970s and still maintained by the same couple. It’s divided into areas – physic, topiary, flower, fancy (statuettes etc) and nursery.
Returning to the road junction, the group divided into two. The heat tolerant four – Keith, Anna, Elaine and Kate went via Winter’s Gibbet to Elsdon and thence to Rothbury arriving at 7.15. The wilting four – Tiana, Barbara, Harry and Maura went via the shorter but no less taxing B road to arrive nearer 6pm.
We stayed and ate at the Turk’s head, a friendly hostelry on the High Street.
Day two promised to be as warm. We set off across the hills to Thropton, Netherton and Whittingham where we had a picnic lunch then onto Shilbottle where we enjoyed cakes and ice cream at the Running Fox. From there it was a short run into Amble where we were staying at the Mason’s Arms. It didn’t serve food on Sundays so we ate at the Wellwood Arms down the road. We were the only ones there! Amble is strangely quiet on a Sunday in July – high season and all that… We walked down to the harbour afterwards for grand sunset views.
Monday we set off on the NCN1 down the coast, cooled to our relief, by an on-shore breeze. We stopped to get a good view of Coquet Island and inspect the flowers and burnet moths in the sand dunes. The route across Druridge bay is rough in places but wonderfully quiet and traffic free. Although less than ten miles from a hearty breakfast we managed to enjoy ice cream at the drift café at Creswell. The whole area was over a drift mine – hence café name, but the industrial heritage only became obvious once we reached Lynemouth where there is a power station and a memorial to the mine.
(The power station, once coal fired, is now run on biomass.) We were going to increase our knowledge further by visiting the nearby mining museum at Woodhorn, but we arrived to find it closed. So we cycled into the neighbouring Queen Elizabeth II country park and picnicked by the lake.
We followed the NCN155 into Ashington and from there zigzagged across the main roads to arrive at Morpeth station for the train home. We might as well have lounged in the country park for another couple of hours for the chaos that greeted us at the station. As is their way, the information is drip fed – trains get later by two minute intervals only to be cancelled after half an hour or so. Every excuse is brought out – broken down trains, signal failures, trees on line and even no electricity! One guy had been on the station since 11.30am! The (there was only one) train arrived at 7.40pm, full to overflowing, and it staggered into Waverley at 11pm!
All in all a lovely cycle ride undertaken in glorious weather.
Tiana
Photos:
Anna, Elaine, Kate,Maura and Tiana
Outer Hebrides
Wednesday 22nd June – Thursday 30th June 2022
Owing to problems with trains Sue and I drove to Mallaig via the A9 and the journey was without incident apart from a traffic jam before Fort William which we could circumnavigate. No problems on return. Long-stay parking in Mallaig on outskirts of the viallge was by donation (suggested £4).
We enjoyed the company of Vic and Jenny for part of the journey in the Uists. They met us off the ferry in Lochboisdale. Two other folk had shown interest but couldn’t make it. Harry joined us in N. Uist for 2 nights and left us in Harris to head up to Stornoway.
Ferries:
Mallaig - Lochboisdale
Bernera - Leverburgh
Tarbert - Uig
Armadale - Mallaig
All cheap and reliable.
Accommodation: All one night stay unless otherwise indicated.
Mallaig: The Moorings Guest House, ate at The Chlachain Inn
Benbecula: Borve Guest House, Torlum, ate at Dark Islands Hotel (walking distance)
N. Uist: Cnoc nan Uan, Tigharry (2 nights), evening meal included
Harris: Lingay House, Leverburgh, evening meal provided
Harris: Avalon B&B, Tarbert (2 nights), ate at Hotel Hebrides and Harris Hotel.
All recommended except for Lingay House where we got off to a bad start. We arrived on the 1pm ferry, dripping wet, having advised the property of our arrival time. This was a Sunday on Harris with nowhere open. No-one was in and the door was open so we let ourselves in at risk of hypothermia if we’d stayed outside. We took off our wet outers and waited at the table. A couple of hours later someone arrived to give us a severe dressing down for having entered a private property and caused them all sorts of extra work e.g the need to sanitise where we’d sat!
Prices for B&B were around £80 - £100 for a double without evening meal. Effie McQUien on N. Uist stood out as the hostess with the mostest – a lovely motherly and caring lady.
Booking well ahead for accommodation and meals is necessary at that time of year.
Approx distances:
Lochboisdale to Benbecula 28 miles
Benbecula to N. Uist 24 miles
N. Uist to Leverburgh, Harris 21 miles
Leverburgh to Tarbert direct route 20 miles, 31 miles if you take a diversion along the rugged east coast
Uig to Broadford 44 miles
Broadford to Armadale 17 miles
Trip total approx 160/170 miles
General comments.
The weather was mixed. Unfortunately our 2 rest days in N. Uist and Harris were either blowing a hooley or very wet. It was also wet for the morning ride to Leverburgh and stormy in part for the long Skye day. Pretty mixed and much what you expect in the Hebrides. Sue luckily managed to get herself and her bike on a bus in Portree so avoided an extra long, wet 20 miles on her bus pass. I, on an electric bike, didn’t feel justified on even asking! The roads were busy and passing place etiquette meant you had to be very mindful of both approaching and rear vehicles.
The Hebrides for me stand out for:
The wonderful light, skies and colours, particularly when the sun shines on the sandy beaches.
The fields of glowing buttercups (we seemed to miss the best of the Machair display but I suspect you would see more walking). There were some orchids, flag iris, corn marigolds etc.
The birds. Skylark song was a continual accompaniment as was the piping of redshanks and oystercatchers and the occasional call of the curlew and in the evening the rasping of corncrakes. We saw hen harriers and daytime flying short-eared owls. We missed seeing a white-tailed eagle and probably saw but didn’t recognise many other species. It would be good to go back for the birds alone.
The history. Ancient burial sites such as the 13th century Teampull Mor on S. Uist all to explore. Also more recent history for example Leverburgh was founded by Lord Leverhulme (he bought Harris for £36000 in 1919 having previously bought Lewis). His vision for the islands failed.
In future I would like to return to spend more time exploring the island’s quieter minor roads and immersing myself in their wildlife and culture. Sue would like to climb the Harris Corbett, Clisham, which we hoped to do but never really even saw!
Elaine
Harry's End to End - Dumfries and Galloway
Tuesday 14th - Thursday 16th June
As far as I was aware four of us were cycling from Lockerbie/Dumfries to Castle Douglas….
Arrived in Dumfries on an early train as Scotrail have now made it a 4 hourly service. Joined at lunchtime by Keith who had cycled from Lockerbie. After lunch we enjoyed a pleasant ride in the sunshine along Harry’s suggested route. The Maxwelltown railway cycle path takes you out of the town and after the turnoff to Terregles we found ourselves on the Glenkiln loop cycleway. Just before Glenkiln we turned left past ‘sculptures’ marked on the map – there seem to be two – a topiary bird and a sitting form. Wikipedia says that it was once a sculpture park but thieves stole one bronze, so the rest were removed ‘for safety’. The road then continues past Brooklands hill to Kirkpatrick Durham, Old Bridge of Urr, Clarebrand and Castle Douglas.
Here we found Richard, who had also cycled from Lockerbie, and Bill who had come from Kirkcudbright! We met up with Harry, Barry and Elaine for a scrumptious evening meal at a local Greek restaurant down the road from the hotel.
This should read that the next day six cyclists set off from Castle Douglas to follow the NCN7 all the way to Newton Stewart…. No!
Due to a combination of punctures, not waiting at junctions for those behind and phones being switched off, the six intrepid cyclists were not in the same place at the same time until the coffee stop at Kirkcudbright!
Leaving that at 1pm meant we were now running late. Another puncture at the back caused us to be (unintentionally) split into three twos.
Keith and I were at the front until Cream o’Galloway where we were overtaken by Barry and Harry who for some reason could resist the Gooseberry and Elderflower offering found only there (I believe). Richard and Bill realising that they’d been left behind, cut a corner to arrive at the Mill on the Fleet café at more or less the same time as Barry and Harry. Keith and I joined sometime later. We did manage to keep together for the last, and toughest, part of the route to Newton Stewart arriving at 7pm.
Fortunately, last orders for dinner wasn’t till 8pm.
Next morning Richard and Bill departed for home on their own route. The four of us set off along the NCN7 again. Barry’s gear cable snapped a few miles up the road. We hoped that there’d be some kind of cycle hub near the Glen Trool cycle trails but no. We had coffee at the visitor centre and cycled on. Barry got over the Nick of the Balloch and its twin to the north on two gears! Harry and Barry peeled off just south of Crosshill to their camp site, while Keith and I carried on to Maybole to catch the train home.
Tiana
Don't forget to sponsor Harry in memory of Neil Smith and Dave McArthur. This is in aid of The Woodland Trust and Sustrans. The justgiving sites are: SUSTRANS and The Woodland Trust
Clubbiedean coffee ride!
Saturday 28th May
A select group of 4 of us! enjoyed a leisurely day out, starting along the canal and river to Colinton. (Excellent Colinton toilets!) Then uphill on Bonaly Rd, and on and up to Clubbiedean Reservoir, and the friendly take away coffee stop at Clubbiedean Cottage.
We passed Alpacas and Llamas en route, then a nice flat part round Torduff Reservoir, before the final, very steep - but short - hill to Clubbiedean! (Why was I the only one to walk this bit?!) We relaxed with our coffees, sitting on the parapet, watching fishermen and rowing boats, in pleasant calm weather.
We continued on a track through fields with cows, sheep & wildflowers and enjoyed views to the Pentland Hills, and way below to the north to the Forth Bridges. We also met a pony and trap - Juno, a cute mini Shetland pony!
We turned left to Harlaw Visitor Centre - not open, but more convenient toilets available! We then passed Harlaw and Threipmuir Reservoirs, and exited at Red Moss; downhill into Balerno, & back along river path, with a stop in Spylaw Park for drinks and snacks & more chat!
Jo and Jenny cut off to their abodes, while Vic and I completed the ride at the Water of Leith Visitor Centre with a cup of tea ( and more excellent toilets!) in lovely sunshine!
Thanks to Vic, Jenny and Jo for coming along.
Sheelagh
Bluebells in Spring
Saturday 21st May 2022
Alastair had planned this ride with his usual meticulous detail, but was unable to come along himself, so he had forwarded the instructions complete with a sketch map to the three participants thinking that nothing could possibly go awry. He hadn’t reckoned on these three!
Within a few hundred metres of Croy station, Anna spied a cycle path, so we shot off down it only to spend 10 minutes at the end trying to find ourselves on the road network again. We were meant to count six roundabouts, but owing to the cycle path, the lead forgot to start at two and overshot the junction into Cumbernauld village. Fortunately our noses led us to the “Bakes by Gillian” café where we enjoyed a soup and cuppa.
Just the other side of the main road from the village, itself a conservation area, is the Cumbernauld Glen nature reserve, a truly lovely wooded hillside along the gloriously named watercourse: Bog Stank.
In May it’s renowned for its bluebells which were indeed ‘hanging in there’ for our arrival. We spent a while admiring them and the impressive network of paths.
The route beyond the reserve was quiet and rural passing through Arns, Fannyside, Dyke, California and Maddison on the way to Linlithgow. The main focus here was to be at the canal basin where festivities were taking place to celebrate 200 years of the Union canal. However, Sue’s main focus was to be on a train before any football fans left Glasgow as she didn’t want a repeat of the crowded conditions of the outward journey.
Anna and Tiana made their way to the basin to see the decorated canal boats. The Panecea with its ‘200’ made from pom-poms had been at the Lochrin basin the day before; a boat in the colours of the Ukrainian flag replete with a cardboard cut-out of President Zelensky drew an extra round of applause.
Anna went to catch the next train while Tiana cycled along the canal path to Winchburgh, then by road home via Kirkliston. Distances approx. 25 and 43 miles.
Tiana
Campbeltown to Oban
Friday 6th to Tuesday 10th May 2022
Ten of us took part in this tour (Alec, Anna, Barbara, Eibhlin, Jan, John, Kathy, Sandie, Sheelagh and Tiana), although we rode together on only one day because several people did their own thing where we had a choice. We rode a total of 155 miles and climbed 3300m – several Munros!
The main feature of the trip – apart from the scenery, hills and weather – was difficulty with communication. You might expect that to be easy now that everybody has a smartphone and email, and booking can be done on the web, but we seemed to go around in circles to arrange the accommodation – never easy for a party of ten – and I spent much of Monday on the phone as people’s mobile signals came and went, trying to rearrange the trip around a hostel that had lost its electricity supply.
FRIDAY MAY 6: TO CAMPBELTOWN
Nine of us met at Ardrossan for the ferry at 1840. Several of the group had joined Alec for lunch in Johnstone and cycled from there, while Sheelagh had travelled the day before. We had good views of Ailsa Craig, the south of Arran and Davaar Island on our way to Campbeltown, where we docked at 2120. A short ride through the dusk brought us to the bunkhouse.
The bunkhouse was beautiful inside, with an airy dining area and lounge, but the most remarkable feature was the style of bunk. Each berth could be curtained off and the upper level was unusually far above the floor – quite a climb, particularly in the middle of the night.
SATURDAY MAY 7: TO THE MULL OF KINTYRE
Most of us took the B842 to Southend. The road climbed gradually to about 100m and was a gentle introduction to the terrain that was to come! The verges had profuse bluebells and the gorse filled the air with its coconut scent. Some buildings had busts outside; one resembled Robert Burns but others were a mystery. We stopped for coffee at the Muneroy Tearoom, whose list of cakes was too long to memorise! The sponge cakes came with astonishing volumes of cream, quite enough for the scones as well. Our waistlines were safe, though, given the hills ahead.
The majority of the party continued to the Mull of Kintyre. The road started easily along the coast, with seals basking on the rocks. We passed the derelict and incongruous Keil Hotel before attacking the hill. The climb had several single-arrow gradients (15% to 20%), with flatter sections between the fiercer slopes, until it reached a pass at 357m. A steep, rough track led down to the lighthouse but we didn’t bother with that; the views from the top were spectacular and it was an excellent spot for lunch. Rathlin Island and the shore of Ireland, about 12 miles away, were visible through the haze.
After the descent, we took the lane through Glen Breackerie. This ascended gently at first but climbed steeply from Dalsmirren, dropped down to a burn and ascended even more sharply to a summit at 184m, where we paused for a breather. The descent returned us to the B842 and we pedalled easily back to Stewarton.
Some of us wanted yet more exercise and turned west, into the wind, for about 4 miles to Machrihanish. Kathy had ridden further along the coast to the Bird Observatory, which was flying a large Ukrainian flag. She reported seals in the adjacent bay so we went to see them enjoying the weather. The wind blew us back to Campbeltown at over 15mph. Distance 43 miles plus 1000m ascent. For people who care about such achievements, the full climb on the Mull is Category 2 (more than 240m of total ascent).
Sandie organised a meal in the hostel, hampered by cooking facilities that were designed for a family rather than a party of ten hungry cyclists. The food was washed down with Tiana’s home-made wine and followed by a cake from the farmers’ market outside the hostel.
SUNDAY MAY 8: CAMPBELTOWN TO TARBERT
Conditions were gloomy with a stiff breeze from the SE. This was initially a headwind as we tackled the hill out of Campbeltown, whose gradient was something of a shock. Conveniently the wind turned behind us for most of the day. The B842 along the east coast of Kintyre is lumpy all the way; it does not climb above 100m but seemed never to have a yard of flat.
We stopped after the first few hills at Saddell and ambled around the Abbey while recovering our energy. A short, easy ride across the valley of the Saddell Water warmed us up for the next ascent and sharp drop to Torrisdale, where the Beinn an Tuirc distillery claims to be Kintyre’s first gin distillery. Inevitably, we had to conquer another steep hill before we swept down to the Blackbird Tearoom in Carradale. This is only a small establishment and our party of ten overwhelmed them! We met the manager of the Campbeltown hostel here – he realised that there could not be many parties of ten cyclists in the area!
The terrain changed after lunch or perhaps the sunshine made everything look less challenging! We were generally higher and further from the coast, and the views of NW Arran across the Kilbrannan Sound kept getting better: Pirnmill, Catacol and later Lochranza, whose ferry could be seen plying to Claonaig. We descended steeply to the shore at the amusingly named Grogport before climbing away from the sea again and pedalling along another nine miles of lumpy road to the junction for Claonaig.
I tried to interest people in an extension to Skipness but got no takers so I went by myself. The Village Store and Post Office has gone out of business (apparently the community may take it over in future) and the Seafood Cabin was not yet open for its usual season. The climb from Claonaig started surprisingly sharply and was followed by an annoying descent to cross a burn, after which the road climbed steadily to 130m. It undulated a little further before West Loch Tarbert came into view and we had an exhilarating descent to Kennacraig on the A83. There was no alternative to the main road for the ride into Tarbert but it was easily graded, not too busy and we benefitted from a tailwind. Distance 40 miles plus 1230m ascent.
I counted 5 single-arrow gradients for climbs on the OS map but the other direction looked far worse: 10 single arrows and 2 double! This was the most strenuous day’s cycling that I can recall with MV.
The fishing boats moored in the harbour were colourful and we could see the Portavadie ferry, tied up for the night. I had been unable to find a single place that could take all ten of us so six people went to the Islay Frigate Hotel and the other four to the nearby Starfish Rooms. Many restaurants were closed due to lack of staff but the Anchor Hotel suited us all.
MONDAY MAY 9: TARBERT TO TORRAN
The weather forecast was depressing, with gusty winds and two-drip rain throughout the day. Even worse, it proved accurate, although the wind was behind us most of the time.
The starfishers took breakfast at the Café Ca’Dora, after which we collected in the Frigate to plan the day. It became clear that we would split into several groups so we bought food in Tarbert before donning waterproofs, after which most of us set off along the Kilberry loop.
Initially we were riding into the wind but the attractive woodland, often floored with bluebells, sheltered us from most of the gusts. The terrain was lumpy again, although less challenging than yesterday. I got an unpleasant surprise, though, when my phone rang near Kilberry. Sheelagh, who was riding separately, said that Torran Bay hostel had tried to cancel our booking due to loss of electric power, but they did offer beds, towels, hot drinks, torches and breakfast, under difficult circumstances. We discussed the situation in the comfort of the café at the Port Bàn Holiday Park. Our orders for food and drinks caused utter confusion but they were extremely hospitable and cooked toasties for us, although they had said that they could offer only cakes when I phoned to check that they were open. In the end we chose a range of options.
I have to admit that I got rather testy, trying to sort this out! Information was hard to acquire because only Kathy had a phone signal (thank goodness that she did!) and the wifi was broken.
• Sheelagh rode to the hostel by herself, as did Jan separately.
• Barbara returned to Tarbert by the way that we had come, while Tiana continued around the Kilberry loop and returned to Tarbert on the A83.
• Kathy and Sandie continued along the Kilberry loop and found a B&B in Ardrishaig.
• Alec, Anna, Eibhlin and John continued on the route to the hostel as planned, stopping for dinner on the way at the Kilmartin Hotel.
Eventually, seven of us continued northward. The weather was no better and the road was just as hilly but the outlook was more optimistic. The biggest climb of the day, up to nearly 200m, was from Achahoish over to the A83 but the easy gradient made it a pleasure. Waves were crashing against the breakwater that protected the entrance to the canal in Ardrishaig when we reached the canal. Wild weather!
We turned on to the beautifully surfaced towpath, whizzed along the canal to the bridge at Bellanoch and turned on to the road. This was just as flat and we raced on to Kilmartin Glen, where we paused briefly at the stone circles. The hotel was surprisingly busy but we enjoyed our meal in the dry. It was a good opportunity to recharge phones as well, which we would not be able to do at the hostel! The rain had eased by the time that we left but returned as we reached the hostel at Torran on Loch Awe. Distance 49 miles plus 570m ascent.
There was no light nor hot water for showers but fortunately the building itself was at a comfortable temperature. We were not the only guests, to our surprise! The hostel is not connected to the electricity grid but relies on generators, which had broken down. The warden hoped that they would be repaired on the following Thursday – several days off.
TUESDAY MAY 10: TORRAN TO TAYNUILT AND HOME
The forecast was for showers and the conditions looked more favourable when we set off after our continental breakfast. After a gently undulating start we met the hills again and climbed away from the loch into the extensive commercial forest. The better weather did not last and we were battered by the heaviest rain of the trip as we freewheeled to the café at Dalavich. We had done only 9 miles but felt that we deserved the coffee and cakes! A red phone box stood outside the café and still had a telephone in it, like many that we passed on this trip. Presumably this is to compensate for the poor mobile phone coverage.
The weather dried up again as we faced another long climb, which opened up good views of Loch Awe. A viewpoint above Inverinan showed the northern end of the loch under a dramatically stormy sky. The road undulated to the junction with the B845 at Kilchrenan, where we turned towards the Taychreggan Hotel down on the loch. This turned out to be a fancy establishment and we were relegated to the bar, where we were eventually served a pleasant but rather pricey lunch.
The breeze had strengthened by the time that we left, whipping up breakers on the shore of the loch. We climbed the road through Glen Nant, reaching 150m, before arriving in Taynuilt in good time for our trains. Barbara and Tiana were there already and had explored The Taynuilt Book Shed in its smart new wooden cabin. Distance 24 miles plus 480m ascent.
Scotrail were not at their best for our return journey. The Highland Explorer train arrived half an hour late. It has a special carriage with space for 20 cycles; the low racks for the front wheel of each bike were extremely easy to use. Unfortunately the train broke down and we were ejected at Crianlarich. A bus was promised but did not arrive until it was too late to be useful, so we caught the next train. We were now about 4 hours late and Eibhlin didn’t reach home in Stow until nearly 01.00. What a sad end to the trip.
◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊
This was a trip of two halves. We had glorious weather and (mostly) trouble-free cycling on the first two days. Poor weather and problems with accommodation, communication and trains marred the second two but we thoroughly enjoyed the adventure! We were lucky with the wind, which was mostly behind us. I think that it was the most challenging tour that I have arranged for MV, with the strenuous ascent to the Mull of Kintyre and even more climbing on the lumpy road along the Kilbrannan Sound. Most roads were pleasantly quiet; I had been worried about weekend traffic around the Mull but we hardly saw a car there. The roads were also well surfaced thanks to the Strategic Timber Transport Network, but we were grateful not to meet any timber lorries.
I hadn’t expected that this ride would be so popular and should have thought more carefully about accommodation. We were lucky that we needed only two sites in Tarbert but had to go further than I had planned the next day because affordable lodgings are hard to find around Lochgilphead; there was really no alternative to the hostel at Torran. I was worried about so large a group cycling together but few of the roads carried much traffic and we split up most days, which worked out well – until we needed to get in touch! Well done to everybody for retaining their good humour despite the weather and other problems!
John
Photos: John, Sheelagh, Kathy, Anna and Tiana
Inaugural Ride
Sunday 27th March 2022
After a week of non-stop sunshine, the ten of us set off from Roseburn on NCN1 to Cramond Brig. We were very pleased to have three newcomers in the group.
By the time we arrived in Dalmeny, the sunshine had changed to haar which was quite thick and we put on our warm clothes and gloves – if we had them.
Continuing on the south side of Queensferry, we could not see either the Forth Road Bridge or the Queensferry Crossing as we pedalled underneath them. However, as we entered Hopetoun estate, the haar lessened and we were soon warm. Daffodils everywhere.
At Abercorn we took NCN76 on the delightful track to Blackness Castle. There was time to appreciate the Castle and foreshore before lunch.
We were made very welcome at the Lobster Pot, a friendly place with quirky décor. Everyone was pleased with their lunch, seafood sandwiches and platters being the most popular choices.
Our return journey began on B903 but very soon, we turned, off-road, to Mannerstons/Rouken Glen Garden Centre. It was very warm and sunny. Cycling in short-sleeves in March! Via Pardovan and Philpstoun, we took B9080 to Kirkliston where it was time for an ice-cream.
We were pleased to leave the noise of traffic and, east of the town, take the cycle track to Carlowrie Cottages and then on to Cramond Brig.
Some people retraced the morning route. Others went home via Cammo.
34 miles.
Barbara
Photos: Sheelagh and Tiana
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Again, because of Covid-19, rides may be postponed or cancelled.
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